It appears a bit daft that, in 2020, the presence of a feminine designer at a serious label ought to nonetheless be seen as one thing distinctive. However a look on the present vogue panorama finds comparatively few feminine creatives on the high. Even Mrs Prada – for therefore lengthy a torchbearer for the feminists in vogue – has nominated a male designer, Raf Simons, to work alongside her on the model.
When Maria Grazia Chiuri was appointed inventive director of Dior womenswear in 2016, she grew to become the primary lady to guide the home in its close to 70 years. Instantly, she stamped her agenda onto the material of her imaginative and prescient – her first search for the home featured a T-shirt that learn “We should always all be feminists”. However it’s for an additional standpoint that we’ve got featured her this week. Even supposing she works for certainly one of France’s most prestigious vogue homes, with its refined Gallic sensibilities and Parisian élan, I’ve loved watching Chiuri usher in a brand new spirit at Dior drawing on her Italian DNA. Chiuri was born in Rome and her character, aesthetic and vitality stay aligned with the town she grew up in, the place she nonetheless retains her household dwelling. It’s manifest in her ardour for the ateliers, her consideration to craftsmanship, and a working observe that’s completely hands-on. For “Maria Grazia Chiuri MMXX: the Roman imaginative and prescient on the coronary heart of Dior”, Chiuri invited our journey editor Maria Shollenbarger to her dwelling to debate her heritage, her relationship with the town and the dolce vita vigour she has delivered to the dove-grey corridors of Avenue Montaigne.
Elsewhere, novelist Bella Pollen’s account of her journey to Nicaragua (“Vacation spot Nicaragua: a rustic getting ready to extraordinary change”) takes us to a nation getting ready to huge change. Wealthy in uncooked supplies, and nonetheless feeling the tremors of lengthy durations of political instability, Nicaragua was slowly establishing itself as a substitute vacationer vacation spot in Latin America when the pandemic struck. It has since tentatively opened up its borders however, as with so many international locations whose cultural riches are a product of its advanced socio-economic previous, Nicaragua’s future as a journey vacation spot is nonetheless fragile. On her multi-stop itinerary to discover its many various options, Bella captures brilliantly the sense of a rustic on the cusp.
In London, and to Cork Avenue, the place the upcoming opening of a gallery has set the artwork scene abuzz (“Saatchi 2.0: an unique interview with the next-gen artwork disrupters”). Phoebe Saatchi Yates and her husband, Arthur Yates, should lack no chutzpah of their resolution to open a brand new house in Mayfair within the midst of a pandemic, however maybe it’s solely pure that the 26-year-old daughter of the previous promoting svengali and collector Charles Saatchi may be predisposed to taking dangers. Of their first interview since asserting their ambitions to be this century’s Leo Castelli, she and Arthur inform Francesca Gavin about their imaginative and prescient for the long run, and why they’re planning to create a sensation of their very own.
And lastly, I might be neglectful if I failed to say undercrackers. Or boxer shorts, in truth. After I was approached by the luxurious loungewear-maker Hamilton and Hare to see if an HTSI contributor may trial a service in made-to-measure boxers, I instantly knew the precise man for the job. In “Bespoke boxer shorts: the last word indulgence, or only a load of pants?”, Alex Bilmes, the editor-in-chief of UK Esquire journal, will get sized up for a yr’s price of undergarments in a spread of fabrications tailor-made to his “particular person physique form”. It’s the sort of indulgence that tends to infuriate our much less sympathetic readers. However Alex’s description of being fitted – in a document heatwave, by a tailor in a face-defending visor – is so outlandishly ridiculous, it made me snicker and snicker. Made-to-measure boxer shorts will not be prone to lead one to enlightenment. However I’ll all the time have the best admiration for a gentleman who takes some delight in his pants.