#SuzyPFW: Dries Van Noten Impressed By New Zealand Artwork

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Dries Van Noten is commonly recognised for restraint. It comes along with his Belgian roots – though his work with Indian embroiderers has typically added a depth of color and texture to his designs.

However this season the visible presentation emphasised shiny colors, mushy satin surfaces, sweet-and-sour shades of inexperienced, and sunshine yellow – fairly a set for Summer time 20/21.

Washes of astringent color, Dries Van Noten, Spring/Summer time 2021

© Viviane Sassen

Altering his type by bringing artwork experiments digitally into the open air, Dries’s photos oozed a cheerful freshness – within the colors and the content material.

Each a rose-pink silk wrap for the fashionable peacock male and a blue lace gown over shimmering silver skirt for the feminine, offered a punch of cheery sensuality.

A sporty high enlivened by a rose-pink wrap in silk, Dries Van Noten, Spring/Summer time 2021

© Viviane Sassen

The mini video that was an add-on for viewers had energetic figures dancing to the music, conveying a vibrance of spirit.

Len Lye was the artist who impressed the present as a catalyst for change. I had not beforehand heard his identify – and Dries admitted that the artist from 1930s New Zealand was a latest discover of his.

Dries Van Noten’s abundance of color and texture, impressed by New Zealand artist of the 1930s, Len Lye

© Viviane Sassen

“It was a revelation – and it’s all the time good when you’ll be able to uncover someone you had by no means heard about,” the designer mentioned. “Len Lye is so fascinating as a result of whenever you see the movies you consider the 1960s and its psychedelic period. But you uncover that, actually, this work was completed within the late 1920s/early-30s by a man in New Zealand who took a strip of celluloid and began to color straight on it. He painted it black and scraped motifs out of it.”

“It’s fairly symbolic,” Dries continued, “as a result of it goes again to the essence of doing one thing straight on celluloid – not with super-complicated computer-generated photos. I just like the directness – to create an emotion as he did by utilizing paint on movie. You possibly can stroll into the pictures, you’ll be able to dance within the photos, so it actually comes alive I feel.”

Acid-yellow stylish, Dries Van Noten, Spring/Summer time 2021

© Viviane Sassen

It was clearly symbolic on this lockdown interval. I appeared on the footage of the gathering’s garments – all caught by images in movement – and requested the designer if he was drawn backwards to the pre-digital period 30 years in the past. However Dries spoke up for the digital universe. 

“After all it has an enormous affect and is an unbelievable device,” the designer defined, taking for example his work with embroiderers in India, which made him “grateful that we now have Zoom – and subsequently the likelihood to speak with out journey.”

A contact of 1930s undulating hair in Dries Van Noten’s Spring/Summer time 2021 presentation

© Viviane Sassen

Absorbing Len Lye’s art work in color and texture was one factor. However the artist’s spirit had additionally to be translated right into a vogue assortment.

“The problem was to seize motion and optimism in gown,” Dries defined. “Daring, optimistic, vibrant, gentle, pure, enjoyable, sculpted, straightforward, kinetic, frank, joyous, vivid, heat – and jubilant and stark,” mentioned the designer, earlier than including: “a minimal of artifice.”

Vibrancy, color, kinetic vitality – the Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer time 2021 motifs

This was a really fantastic assortment to provide at this perilous time. Though I’d have appreciated to the touch and really feel the materials and perceive higher the design.

The colors of the acid-rainbow for Spring/Summer time 2021, Dries Van Noten

The place does Dries stand between hand and display?

“Nothing is best than feeling the material and never having to indicate it on display. However I feel we now have to be practical with the restrictions that we now have. A whole lot of the issues we take as a right usually are not doable anymore. No vogue present – so how can we current a set? For me it was fairly clear that I needed to do a photograph shoot. I didn’t wish to make a pretend vogue present.” 

A Dries Van Noten hoodie making a dynamic silhouette, Spring/Summer time 2021

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